My vineyards span the Rust mountain range, the southern foothills of the Leithagebirge, in various exposures. They are located on high plateaus, on the plain and on slopes that mostly slope down in gentle waves. Their soils are mostly shallow, but sometimes also deep, often sun-drenched and warm, but occasionally cool and shady. Some are suitable for Blaufränkisch and Pinot noir, others for Welschriesling and Pinot blanc, many are based on limestone, some on slate and others on brown earth. All have their own history. You just have to give them the opportunity to tell it.
The Satz has been a vineyard for white varieties since time immemorial. My grandfather planted his Welschriesling in the active limestone of the vineyard and hoped to get a wine in the glass that would combine Burgenland fruit with Burgundian texture. And he was not too far off the mark with this idea. But the set also leaves room for a red exception. Pinot noir has been rooted in its soils for over 50 years and enjoys not only the high lime content but also the cool conditions due to air masses coming in from the north.
The name speaks volumes. But you could also replace the gold in the mountain with mica slate. Because that is what the location is based on. The Goldberg faces away from the lake and is exposed to cool thermals blowing along the Leithagebirge from the north. However, since slate soils warm up easily, there is a warm-cold contrast here as well, as in Marienthal, but under the opposite sign: cold soil + warm air = Marienthal, warm soil + cool air = Goldberg. Both vineyards offer Blaufränkisch ideal conditions, although they are clearly different despite some overlaps. The wines from the Goldberg are softer, warmer, finer and more accessible, contrasting the power and robustness of the Marienthal with elegance and charm. What they both have in common is pervasive energy, vitality, aromatic diversity and immense potential.
If you look from Marienthal towards the east, Lake Neusiedl spreads out in front of you and behind it the Pannonian plain. If you look at the ground, however, you will see calcareous sand and probably a few small lime boulders. A metre deeper you will find chalk, especially in the relatively steep Oggau part of Marienthal, where my sticks are.
The climate from the east and the subsoil are the decisive factors for the fact that the rather inconspicuous Mariental is one of the best Blaufränkisch sites in Burgenland. Warm Pannonian air masses that force growth meet a cool soil here that slows it down. This tension gives rise to wines that are equally characterised by antagonism. Immense power is cushioned by lively acidity, powerful tannin and a robust, straightforward texture by an intense play of fruit.
The Pratsche adjoins the Marienthal and slowly runs out into the plain south of Oggau. While moist brown earth often characterises the soil at the bottom, the upper part is characterised by massive limestone soils. Warm Pannonian winds blow through the vineyards and ensure balanced growth. Blaufränkisch from Pratsche, which goes by the name Leithaberg for me, sets the prologue to Marienthal with somewhat less tannin and more discreet acidity.
The Haidsatz vineyard looks far back into history. You can find it in documents from the 15th century, where it is praised as a particularly good vineyard. Particularly suitable for well-founded white wines, it had to leave the limelight to other vineyards during the decades of the Burgenland red wine boom. Only in recent years has it slowly re-emerged on the scene with multi-layered and expressive wines. It rests on a mixture of lime and slate, more precisely on a lime base over a slate slab. It is positioned in the middle of the Schützner Steins, where it opens up to cool north-easterly winds that positively delay ripening and give the Pinot blanc that grows there a juicy texture and a powerful backbone.
Riede Seeberg is a plateau 50 metres above Schützen and 180 metres above sea level. Millions of years ago, the sea still lay above the Riede, leaving behind fossils and shells as it retreated, which today form the foundation of the enormous limestone bedrock. Thanks to its geological formation, the soil absorbs precipitation, but also stores it perfectly and thus promotes the nutrient supply of the vines. The topographical sourcing as a plateau guarantees the vines sun and wind all day long, warming and cooling effects, both of which are reflected in the wine.